How Birkenstock Went from "Ugly" to Iconic

Birkenstock has transformed dramatically from its days as the "ugly" sandal, often associated with hippies, grannies, and tourists.

Today, these chunky, comfortable shoes have taken the fashion world by storm, becoming favorites among celebrities and influencers alike.

Founded in 1774 by Johann Adam Birkenstock, it began as a small cobbler's workshop and has grown into a global name, committed to environmental responsibility.

So how did this 250-year-old German brand evolve into a billion-dollar powerhouse?

The Comfort Revolution

For decades, Birkenstocks were worn in secrecy. Quynh Mai, founder of the digital creative agency Qulture, recalls her college days when she wore them only in the privacy of her dorm room. “Back then, they were super hippie-dippie,” she reflects, often paired with pajamas and hidden from sight.

Nicole Anderson, a writer and editor, echoed this sentiment, admitting that she once despised Birkenstocks, associating them with the “hacky sack” hippie stereotype.

However, as Birkenstock began introducing sleeker styles and vibrant colors over the past decade, many—including Anderson—had a change of heart. “Now, I find them nice-looking and comfortable,” she says.

Today, the average Birkenstock customer owns about 3.6 pairs, reflecting a significant shift in perception and a growing appreciation for the brand.

Embracing the “Ugly” Trend

Birkenstock's focus on comfort aligns perfectly with a broader trend: the embrace of “ugly” fashion.

In recent years, younger generations have moved away from conventional beauty norms, proudly sporting styles that prioritize comfort over convention. This cultural shift has allowed Birkenstock to shine in a world increasingly valuing practicality and self-expression.

Maggie Sause, Head of Marketing at Red Antler, highlights the trend of fashion influencers stepping out in shoes once deemed unattractive.

“We’ve seen this over the last decade—fashion icons embracing what were traditionally considered ugly shoes designed for extreme comfort,” she notes.

This shift has made Birkenstock a go-to choice for many, as the brand’s quality and comfort resonate with those seeking to express their individuality.

Collaborations and New Audiences

Birkenstock’s strategic collaborations have significantly boosted its brand equity.

By partnering with high-end designers like Dior, Manolo Blahnik, and Rick Owens, the brand tapped into the allure of luxury fashion, reaching a whole new audience. These collaborations not only boosted Birkenstock’s status but also introduced it to customers in upscale retail environments.

Sause emphasizes that these partnerships opened doors for Birkenstock, allowing it to be sold in places beyond traditional outdoor retailers like REI. “New fans may have come to the brand through collaborations, but the reasons for their popularity are always comfort and durability,” she explains.

This universal appeal makes Birkenstocks just as likely to be worn by fashionistas in Milan as by a 75-year-old man running errands in Vermont.

The Instagram Effect

Social media, particularly Instagram, has played a crucial role in Birkenstock’s rise. As everyday people—rather than just celebrities—emerged as influencers, they began shaping fashion trends and promoting unique styles.

When arbiters of style, including models, fashion stylists, and photographers’ assistants, started wearing Birkenstocks, the brand gained significant traction.

“Once the coolest person in the room was wearing them, it gave regular people the license to wear them as well,” Sause says.

This change in perception helped propel Birkenstock to new heights, with its sandals evolving into a symbol of comfort and style.

Comfort in a Changing World

The COVID-19 pandemic further accelerated the shift toward comfort, as people sought cozy clothing and footwear during uncertain times.

Many turned to comfortable shoes as a form of self-care. While Birkenstock was already becoming a fashion favorite, the pandemic made comfort a necessity. We all had to step back from fashion-first clothing and footwear for a while.

Birkenstock benefited from this cultural moment. “People began embracing the ugly as a way of rejecting mainstream ideals of perfection. This cultural shift during COVID has lasted, and Birkenstock rode that wave,” Mai states.

A Billion-Dollar Valuation

Recently, Birkenstock made its Wall Street debut, starting at $41 per share—lower than the expected $46. This initial public offering valued the company at $8.64 billion. However, entering the public market brings new challenges, including pressure from analysts and investors to meet financial targets.

NYU professor Thomai Serdari, who studies premium legacy companies, is curious to see how Birkenstock will navigate this new landscape. “Once you’re listed, you have to achieve specific quarterly numbers, which could alter some of the strategies they’ve employed for the past 250 years,” she explains. “I hope they maintain their strength and don’t compromise the quality of the product.”

Conclusion: A Footwear Icon

From its beginnings as a family-run business focused on orthopedic footwear to its current status as a symbol of style and comfort, Birkenstock has successfully merged function with fashion. Its ability to adapt to cultural shifts while staying true to its roots has paved the way for remarkable evolution.

As more people embrace comfort and individuality in their fashion choices, it seems Birkenstock is not just a passing trend. With its rich history, innovative collaborations, and growing popularity, this iconic brand is poised to step boldly into the future, proving that even a sandal known for comfort can achieve both fame and fortune.

With each step it takes, Birkenstock reminds us that fashion doesn’t have to sacrifice comfort, and sometimes the “ugly” choices can lead to the most beautiful journeys.

Thanks for joining us in this issue of The Beanstalk—see you in the next one for more insights and inspiring stories!